For best results, use a systemic weed killer on unwanted vegetation following the instructions on the container. Clear any old grass, weeds and debris, then rotovate or dig over to a minimum depth of 15cm (6”). Improve heavy soils by incorporating horticultural sand.

Rake and tread the surface to produce a firm, level bed. Feed prior to turfing by incorporating a general fertiliser into the soil and raking to a fine tilth.

LAYING
Unroll the turf carefully and lay it in position, taking care not to stretch the sward. Always work forwards in rows, overlapping the joins as in bricklaying. Keep checking that the turfs are tightly butted together and in hot weather, water the turf as you go along.

Use a sharp edging tool or knife to cut off excess turf. An old hosepipe makes an ideal guide for cutting curves. Use a tamper to ensure that all the underside of the turf is in contact with the soil. Working from boards makes the job easier and prevents damage to freshly laid turf.

AFTERCARE
Moisture levels must be maintained while the grass is establishing. As a general guide, each roil of turf requires a gallon of water per day even if it does rain.

Mowing should take place once the turf has rooted down. Check by trying to lift a corner of a piece of turf - if it won’t lift, it is safe to mow. Cut regularly using a cylinder mower fitted with a box to collect the clippings. Be sure not to cut more than a quarter of the length at any one time and gradually bring the height of the cut down to between 25mm and 38mm (1" to 1.5") for Regal, or between 13mm and 19mm (0.5” to 0.75”) for Elite. Maintaining at this height should control most weeds.

A nitrogen-rich fertiliser and selective weed killer applied at the beginning of the summer will promote leaf growth and control most annual weeds, while a phosphate-rich fertiliser applied at the end of the summer will assist the production of strong roots.